Canal Boat Holidays in England
Traditional Narrowboats Take You Where Other Boats Can't Go
Canal Boat holidays are a great way to explore the hundreds of waterways that are spread all over England. Enjoy canalside walks and wildlife at close quarters
Three men in a boat might have done better. When, after we three women had decided to take a narrowboat holiday on the English waterways Jane asked about keys for the locks, I knew we were in for an ‘interesting’ holiday. Sixteen tons of steel to steer and after a 15-minute run-through of what and what not to do we were on our own after the first lock- whereupon we instantly forgot all the instructions. How was that knot tied? Do we open both gates or just one? Arrrgh! Why are we doing this?
England - Canal Boat Holidays - Starting out
However, it was easier than we had thought. We started out from Berkhamstead in Hertfordshire, where we picked up our beautiful red narrowboat.You can only go north towards Northampton or south to London. We went north and managed to navigate our way through the locks without too much trouble - one at the tiller, the other two clambering over and around the locks, turning winches, pushing hard against the gates to open or close them. After nine or so locks and an entanglement with a fisherman who threatened to throw his maggots at us for going too close to his line, we decided to call it a day.
England - Canal Boat Holidays - Complete freedom
One of the nicest things about a canal holiday is the complete freedom of it all; stopping at canalside pubs for lunch; mooring in a quiet spot and exploring the countryside on foot. With your hand on the tiller and the sun on your back, life on the water seems idyllic but there is also quite a bit of work involved. Weeds regularly get stuck in the propeller and you have to plunge your arm deep into grungy water to untangle them. You also have to fill up with fresh water and turn the grease nipple twice a day to lubricate the stern tube.
England - Canal Boat Holidays - The Locks
You need patience on the canals. If this is not your way it soon will be. Things move very slowly and it seems to take ages for the locks to fill or empty. Many locks accommodate two boats and this is when you get to know other canal folk. They're a friendly lot. Many live permanently on their boats and have them kitted out most luxuriously. This is the time to get information on the best pubs, what to do when something goes wrong and where the best mooring spots are.
Moored in a sleepy, tree-lined part of the canal, drinking gins and tonic, sniffing our dinner simmering on the stove and watching a heron perched on a tree outlined against a brilliant sunset we agreed with the most eloquent water rat of all time, Ratty in 'The Wind and the Willows', that messing about in boats is marvellous.
Related article: London - Canal Walking
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